Pruning trees in spring, autumn, summer. If the trees froze

Necessary event. Its goal is to heal, direct its growth in the right direction and achieve abundant fruiting. Trimming in no way contradicts, but quite the contrary - keeps up with the laws of nature, relying on them. In fact, it is an imitation of natural processes, which is one of the activities for the care of cultural garden trees   and not letting them run wild.

Thanks to competent pruning, each tree branch receives the necessary amount of light and its own space, without disturbing others. Pruning is also used as a therapeutic measure for various breakdowns due to natural processes.

Finally, trimming old dead branches, you free the tree from excess load and allow it to direct its efforts to growth and development, and you save yourself from the danger of breaking off dry branches that can collapse at the most inappropriate time and place.

In this article, we will consider the types of cropping. fruit trees, we’ll find out when it is better to crop them - in the spring or autumn, summer or winter, and also study the video for beginners.

Pruning a garden is a procedure of great importance for plant health and crop quality. It regulates metabolic processes inside the tree, redistributing vital resources and directing them to the required parts of the tree.

Together with other agricultural methods pruning balances all parts of the tree:

• roots
• wood;
• leaves;
• fruit.

In the course of existence, the fruit tree is constantly changing, growing at different speeds at different times, directing forces:

• to strengthen the root system;
• to build green mass;
• to intensive growth;
• for flowering and fruiting;
• to protect against disease;
• to prepare for a period of calm and so on.

Based on the intended goals, share six types of trimming:

1.   - Delays aging and prolongs life.
2. Formative   - simulates the appearance of the crown.
3. Regulatory   - Regulates fruiting.
4. Recovery   - leads parts of the plant to tone.
5. Sanitary   - heals the tree and eliminates excess load.
6. Supporting - Refreshes and rewards with new forces.

Anti-aging

After the tree begins to bear fruit, after 2-3 years it is necessary shorten too long branchesthat will “wake up” the accessory buds, limit the growth of branches, form a crown, rid the plant of dead fragments and give it the opportunity to recover. This measure is also applied if the flowering activity has decreased.

In addition, such an event will significantly improve the aesthetics of the appearance of the tree. Anti-aging pruning involves the removal of thickening and drooping branches and extra spinning tops; skeletal and semi-skeletal branches are made from those located in a good place. Such a procedure can be carried out both in autumn and at the end of winter and at the beginning of spring approximately every three years.

Formative

Using forming pruning, it simulates the appearance of a tree, the load on its skeletal part, and allows the plant to develop evenly.

Did you know? It is curious that if the procedure is carried out in February, the branches will go into intensive growth, while the Marchpruning will slow this process down.

The objectives of the forming crop:

• acceleration of the onset of flowering;
• yield increase;
• well-groomed appearance;
• ensuring uniform access of the sun to the crown;
• increased stamina;
• ease of access to branches for harvesting and care.

Formative pruning is not a one-time event, with the help of this technique for several years the crown of the tree is formed in stages   by evenly placing well-lit branches in it throughout the skeletal part of the tree. An adult tree that has lost a skeletal branch due to breaking, aging or death, or has acquired a branch, may also need it.

Regulatory

By adjusting cropping the already formed crown is preserved in the desired form, branches are provided with uniform lighting, extra young shoots are removed. With its help, the gardener maintains a balance of growth and yield of fruits and creates conditions for renewal of wood and growth rate.

It is held from the end of February to April, and also from August to September, and is actively used in industrial gardens.

Recovery

If a plant is damaged for some reason, restoration pruning will help return to it the possibility of further development. With her help form a crown of acceptable size, achieve a balance of its constituent parts, control the number of growing shoots and improve lighting. After such an intervention, fullness returns to the crown, it becomes able to grow and bear fruit.

During the event, diseased and broken branches are removed. Apply it also:

• to trees injured mechanically or frostbite;
• if the tree has not been pruned for a long time and now has a rather neglected appearance;
• when excessive crown overgrowth occurred, which interferes with neighboring plants and impedes harvesting and necessary care;
• if the light has become difficult to break through the dense branches of the crown and the lower branches are deficient in sunlight.

Sanitary

Sanitary pruning is done as routine treatment and as an ambulance. Like most therapeutic measures, it should be carried out as needed, when the plant became ill, acquired dried or broken branches, or frostbitten them.

This is done at any time of the year, frost is the only obstacle, and the best time is considered the beginning of summer, when the tree woke up. Regularly and annually produced sanitary pruning will make the tree healthier, give it a decent appearance, thinning the crown, and prevent infectious and fungal infections.

Important! To prevent the spread of infection, removing the infected branch should be disinfected and burn the infected parts of the tree as soon as possible.

It should be remembered that an overly radical procedure will entail consequences in the form of a too thickened crown. It should also be considered with the age of the tree and its size.

Supporting

• not to let out growing branches beyond the boundaries of the formed crown;
• keep the crown in a state of permeability to the sun;
• prevent exposure of large branches;
• rid skeletal branches of annoying young shoots;
• maintain the health and tone of the tree for active growth and stable fruiting.

Determining factors and timing

The main burden on the gardener lies at a time when the frost has already passed, and has not yet begun, that is, from the end of February and throughout most of spring. During this period, you no longer need to be afraid that frost will damage the freshly cut plant, and at the same time it will not lose nutrients along with the cut parts.

In some cases, the possibility of pruning up to the flowering period is allowed.

Did you know? In the city of Piedmont, Italy, an unusual double tree grows. It turned out from, on top of which the bride sprouted in what way the brought cherry stone. Developing, the cherry pierced through the trunk of the mulberry, and now they are a single whole, each remaining one.

Early spring is the time when fruit trees begin to be cut. The first “swallows” in this matter are, and indeed, pome fruits. They start the stone fruits a little later.

The determining factors for this or that type of trimming are:

• tree species;
• state of fruit plantations.

Apple trees   - the most stable crops, which are less affected by adverse conditions. With them, the work on healing, rejuvenation and correction begins, and it ends on them.

Branches of apple trees and in frost are prone to freezing at the ends, it is better to remove this kind of damage closer to mid-May.

With cherries, cherries and plums, the principle approach is as follows:

• strong cherries or cherries should be cut after the harvest;
• if the cherry is weak, circumcision in the winter will help - this will stimulate the growth of new shoots in the spring;
• pruning is recommended during harvesting, or in the middle or end of June.

Pinch the shoots in the summer to save the plant strength for more important things. Autumn pruning of fruit trees - sanitary.

Important! In the case where the branches withbrokeunder the weight of snow, or   trunk   split during a snowstorm, pruning should be done as soon as possible.

In the spring

You can start pruning fruit trees in spring after the main frosts subside, but it will be correct if the gardener waits for time, when the sap flow is about to begin.

Such a time is considered the most suitable, since plant tissues in this period are already prepared for the processes that are about to begin to occur in them. A slice in such conditions will heal as quickly as possible - of course, if it is done correctly and processed properly. If a formative procedure is required, it is quite possible to wait, or even get along in another year.

So, the basic rules that should be followed by any gardener:

• the earliest when you can start pruning is the time when the main frosts are gone, but it is better to wait for the moment when you are ready to start the movement of juices;
• the cut is made over the eye, growing from the crown in the outer direction, making it from the inside out smooth and even.
• the skeletal branches by which the trunk continues remain longer;
• weak trees are cut short, leaving two or three eyes; for strong ones, eight or more eyes remain.

Summer

The term "summer pruning" includes several tricks carried out with green shoots that did not have time to acquire bark, for thinning the crown to access sunlight:

• pinch   - in order for shoots to grow from awakening buds, which will have time to prepare for wintering;
• tweezers   - for the development of the uterine branch of the full formation of wood, which will help to accelerate and improve fruiting;
• breakage   - to remove young shoots that are not valuable for the crown, it is tolerated easily and does not need processing;
• break   - rarely implemented method in order to give the growing branches the desired direction;
• trimming   - to obtain a flower bud near the beginning of the shoot already in the year when it began to grow.

Did you know? Designers have learned to form various objects from a living growing tree, for example, furniture, using various agricultural techniques, including pruning.

Fall

Autumn pruning is carried out mainly for sanitary purposes; or, if it is planned to rejuvenate the tree in spring, protective links are left. This technique is also good at this time of year for very. Cut trees in the fall then when leaf fall comes.

If you cut off the annual shoot, frost can damage not only the place where the cut is located, but also a decent area around, and this certainly can not be called successful healing. Such a tree will be hard during wintering, which will adversely affect the buds in the spring. The risk is higher the north the garden is located.

However, if there is a need for sanitary pruning, the above considerations lose their relevance, vital indications are vital, as is commonly said in medicine. An affected disease must be treated so that the infection does not spread further, and moreover, does not transfer to neighboring plants. In such cases, the amputated affected parts must be burned.

Fruit trees are not very good for autumn pruning, and some may die or become very ill after it - for example, plum, cherry or pear. On young seedlings, it will also not affect well.

In winter

Winter pruning is more appropriate in southern regions where frosts are rare and winters are mild. She is good in that:

• plants get less stress because they are in hibernation;
• slices made are more accurate and high quality;
• it helps that there are no leaves at all, and all branches are very well visible.

When a tree is damaged due to strong winds, icing of branches or excessive snow heaviness, and, moreover, it threatens with further splitting or breaking, the gardener does not have a question whether it can be cut. You need to trim, you just have to wait for the first opportunity, namely - reduction or absence of frost.

What to do after trimming

Any circumcision leaves behind a wound surface with which moisture evaporates. Also, it, in fact, is an open gate for all kinds of infections. Small sections can heal on their own, vast areas, from 2.5 cm in diameter, need processing.

Important! When planting and pruning, young peaches and apricots need to lubricate even the smallest wounds, until the tree gets stronger and grows. In adult apricot and peach, small slices can no longer be processed.

No matter how sharp the saw or hacksaw used to cut it, in any case, the surface after it will not be smooth, so it needs to be cleaned with a sharp garden knife. Then - treat with a special tool for wound healing; for example, or oil-based paint.

You can not use any paints other than oil - the solvents included in their composition will have a detrimental effect on the tree, penetrating its tissues through a fresh cut. To apply the product, use a spatula, brush or cut knot.

The smeared wound begins to heal from the edges, forming a crustal roller on them, which after treatment grows at a speed of 2-3 cm per year, in contrast to 1 cm, if not treated.

Whatever manipulations you make with the tree, remember that this is a living organism that can be harmed if you do not have enough knowledge. You need to know the processes and laws by which it carries out its activities and, intervening in them, to understand what exactly you expect from your intervention. And a tree, like any living creature, will always thank for caring and give it a rich harvest.

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To improve well-being and strengthen the body, the buds of the trees are very helpful. Spring buds have an amazing effect. However, what tree and why read below.

1. Very good buds of lilac.
  This is an excellent antidiabetic agent. They contain a lot of tannins and bioflavonoids. It is believed that just chewing a few buds of lilacs will greatly improve digestion.

2. Known herbal remedies are birch buds.
   They are included in many fees for the treatment of the stomach, and joints, and cancer.

3. Cherry buds treat the thyroid gland.
   If someone has a garden, it’s useful to stop by and eat a kidney or two from time to time.

4. The kidneys of all conifers are useful for bronchopulmonary diseases.
   Children from small pine cones, from the kidneys, can cook jam. Just pour them with syrup, boil, the children will like it. This jam helps cough well.

5. One of the most interesting recipes.
   Everyone who has a garden pruned apple trees. A lot of branches remain, and most often we throw them away. But it turns out that if you rob the kidneys together with small branches and then pour them oil, boil and strain a little, you get an ointment that is rubbed into the temples with headaches, and for children - if they do not speak well or have strong fears. This is especially useful for girls, because the apple tree is a purely female plant. To prepare the ointment, you can take about 100 grams of kidneys per 200 grams of butter.

6. Poplar buds are especially valuable.
   They that work as propolis and treat a lot of male diseases (in particular prostatitis). 100 grams of kidneys, along with small branches, need to be poured with vodka, insisted on a new moon for 14 days, then drink 10-15 drops per day, most importantly - not half a glass.

7. For vessels, the buds of wild rose, hawthorn, and chokeberry are very useful.
This does not mean that we are approaching a tree and like rabbits eat all its buds. It is enough to eat a couple of kidneys. Recommendations for blood vessels are also relevant for people with visual impairments.

8. In the spring, currants are also cut, and this is a good anti-allergic agent, it tidies up all body systems.

9. Kidneys can be chewed fresh, or brewed like tea. In order for the kidneys to give useful substances to the water, it is enough for them to infuse for only 5 minutes.

10. On walks, pluck and eat 1-2 kidneys different trees. All of them have a positive effect on the body as a whole. The main thing is not to overdo it, and if you are not sick, then do not get carried away with one thing.

If the trees are frozen.

Apple tree is one of the most winter-hardy and frost-resistant fruit crops.

Why then does she sometimes suffer from low temperatures?

1 reason - non-zoned variety;

2 reason - the tree is sick or old;

3 reason - frost hit early in the fall or late in the spring, ..................... the tree has not yet fallen asleep;

What temperatures can cause damage?

Branches die during winter hibernation at temperatures below -30 ° C, and in some varieties they can withstand -40 ° C.

Flower buds die in a state of complete rest at below -25C.

If the frosts returned after the start of the growing season,

then for the death of shoots it will be enough - 7 C,

and flowers or buds - 3 C.

What varieties are the most frost-resistant?

According to particularly frosty 2006:

Antonovka
Papier
Malta Bagaevsky
Star
Young naturalist
Mantet
Melba
Hero
Oryol striped
Long
Golden Chinese

DAMAGES: SYMPTOMS AND TROUBLESHOOTING.

Neither in April nor in May buds awaken on the tree. The tree retains its winter appearance in a leafless state. The bark acquires a gray lifeless color, wrinkles, dries up. When peeling off the bark, the tissues under it are moist, with the smell of rot, of a dark color. On the sections of branches, all tissues are brown. Also on the roots. The kidneys on the cut are also brown. Overgrowth does not form.

Such symptoms indicate a complete death of the tree. It should be uprooted.

- if the aerial part of the tree is in the same state, but the roots in the section are of a normal color and the bark on the stem in the ground zone is in a normal state, and soon the root and stem shoots appear, then only the aerial part of the tree died. Moreover, if the buds sprouted above the vaccination site, then the crown will recover, and if there is a basal shoot, then it can be useful only for re-grafting.

It is necessary to remove the damaged part of the crown. From overgrown shoots form a convenient new crown, for example, in the form of a bush, a bowl, etc. Or replace the tree completely with the best grade.

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- at normal times, the buds start to grow, buds and flowers appear. The leaves are small, later turn brown and dry without falling. The wood and kidneys are of normal color on cuts. Roots on the cut are brown in color, no shoots. This indicates the death of the root system, possibly from frost or flooding.

The tree must be removed from the garden.

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The roots were not affected, a strong shoot appeared, but the old crown is much behind in development, small leaves, poor growths, the color on the cuts of branches differs from normal - light green. Brown areas indicate freezing of tissues. Such symptoms may occur over several seasons; recovery is, in principle, possible.

H to reduce the infertile period, it is necessary to evaluate the value of the variety. Based on this, decide to remove the low-value tree, and cut a good variety to a strong standard shoot shoot, then form a new one from it.

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- the vast majority of fruit and growth buds do not wake up or develop poorly. Thin branches on the slices are brown in color, that is, damaged. But on thick sections of the stem and large branches, strong tops of shoots appear.

In this case, you should also remove the damaged part of the crown, and restore it due to strong tops of shoots.

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- only fruit buds did not bloom. On the cut, they are dark. Growth sprouts and develop normally. This suggests that only the crop died. With ordinary care, next year the tree will completely recover. If this phenomenon is repeated frequently, this means that the variety is not suitable for cultivation in the area. In this case, it is better to re-graft or replace the tree.

Buy seedlings after a hard winter.

If the winter was frosty, then it is better to refrain from buying seedlings next spring. They often suffer, especially in prikop.

Signs of freezing are a wrinkled bark on growths, and at the roots it is unnaturally brown, lagging or dried out. The seedling should not have cracks, nodes, which is a sign of cytosporosis. Updating the slices on the purchase will allow on the spot to determine whether the seedling is frozen or not.

Sunburn.
Another winter specific
damage to trees at low temperatures.

* Sunburns look like dark spots of various shapes and sizes. With light burns, only the outer layers of the bark are damaged, with more severe ones, the bark, cambium, and outer layers of wood die to the entire depth. Over time, the dead bark lags behind, exposing the wood.

* Naked internal tissue of the tree becomes easily accessible for fungal diseases. Damaged trees disrupt the movement of juices, which ultimately leads to weakening and ultimately to the death of the tree.

* In winter sunny days, the bark heats up even at sub-zero air temperatures, and at night, tissues that leave their dormant state freeze and become damaged.

* Damaged bark in the summer is easily separated in the form of strips of different lengths and the wood is exposed. Such places are cleaned with a knife to healthy areas and washed with 0.1% vitriol, strapping is done with a black film, coating with clay. If necessary, vaccination should be done with a bridge.

* Cherry, cherry, apricot, peach, plum are unstable to such lesions.

  * Young trees are damaged more than adults.